The solution is a very well marked walking tour called La Chouette. Embedded in the sidewalk are brass triangles with a little owl (la Chouette) pointing the way. With a city map in hand we spent a drizzly day following the little owls.
We learned that the composer Rameau was born in Dijon as well as the sculptor of one of the statues on the Arc de Triomphe, Francois Rude.
Dijon was important as the capital of Burgundy up until the 15th century when the French kings, especially Louis XI, won the Hundred Years War and dominated the Burgundians thereafter.
The Musee de Beaux Arts was a great place to get out of the rain. Like the Smithsonian museums in Washington it is free. Even the lockers returned the euro we had deposited when we returned the key. The most impressive room was the tombs of two of the Dukes of Burgundy.
The Burgundians were essentially the losers in the battle to control France. They were allied with the English and made a good effort. Now they are the capital of spicy mustard and great wine.